Friday, May 16, 2014

Arkansas to New Mexico IMPRESSIONS

We are definitely in the West! We watched the progression of the great plains of Kansas change from tall grass prairie (dominated by large scale center pivot irrigation agriculture) to short grass prairie (dominated by cattle ranching) as we rolled through that state. Midway across we skirted thunderstorms to our north and found out later that there had been tornado warnings out and at least one confirmed touchdown. 

Soon after rolling through the Oklahoma panhandle and into New Mexico we camped overnight at  Clayton Lake State Park.  We were surprised to be able to walk to see uncovered/preserved dinosaur tracks by the lake. The cool temperatures of that night continued as we drove towards the Rocky Mountains.  While ascending the mountains we encountered snow!  Up to five inches accumulation of snow on the ground (but none on the roadway) made for safe driving and stunning views.

We are now visiting one of Christine's nieces living near Farmington, NM and filling up on Mennonite home cooked food and taking hot soaking baths.   I can't imagine how anyone can do much farming in this land of rocks, sagebrush, and scrubby juniper; however,  we can see how the desert blooms (here at Paul & Diane's) with water irrigation from the concrete ditches.  (They pay $500.00 @ season for irrigation water.)

Marlin

Water is the life blood of making the desert bloom.  Adin Gingerich was the first Mennonite here (42 years ago).  He told how his parents and other Amish families were lured to NM to buy land which supposedly grew 4-5 foot high wheat.  His parents came, but they didn't irrigate.  They couldn't even afford to pay their land taxes; so they gave their land back to the county and moved out of NM.  Currently land (in Paul's area) is selling for around $20,000.00 @ acre.  Is this because the Bureau of Land Management owns so much of the land and oil pumping and refining is the big business here?
So if there aren't irrigation lines, one sees oil pumps and collection stations.
The rivers and lakes are are still ultimately dependent on rain fall and snow melts.  Clayton Lake State Park did not have enough water for boats for 2 years, but rains this past Fall will allow boats on the lake this season.

There had been miles and miles of fields. 
 I wondered, "Where are the houses and the people?  
In the Flint hills of eastern Kansas, I learned that the land is owned by rich non-local folks.  Cattle are trucked in to graze May through August.

At Clayton Lake, NM the ranger said that he would have liked to stay on his home farm, but it couldn't provide enough income for a family.  The local town used to have a thriving cattle business when there were three big ranchers.  After one rancher bought all 3 ranches, he went broke; so cattle and jobs left the area.
It seemed like there were decaying houses and towns in decline. 
Railroad stations are no longer open in towns such as Mansfield, MO, but train tracks run beside the highway and through the towns.  One moving train had 2 engines pulling 86 cars.  Is J.B. Hunt still operating some of Mansfield's old canneries?  Grain is definitely being shipped from the towns' grain elevators. 

Hugoton, KS was advertised as the Gas Capital.  A local policeman said their claim was for natural gas, but the local supply is almost depleted.  Currently fracking seems to be very active in southern New Mexico.

Christine

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